The caramel base for Jerusalem kugel comes together without stirring it with a spoon, just swirling the pot gently, so the sugar does not crystallize or scorch where a spoon would touch it. The combination of sweet caramel and a generous amount of black pepper is what makes this Jerusalem kugel and not just a regular noodle kugel.

The noodles cook separately, get mixed into the hot caramel, and go into the oven until the top layer turns golden and firm.

How to caramelize the sugar without burning it

Sugar and oil heat together over medium heat, and instead of stirring with a spoon, you swirl the pot occasionally to spread the heat evenly. The color moves through stages, from clear liquid to golden to amber, and the moment it reaches a deep amber, pull it off the heat immediately, since the sugar keeps darkening even after it is removed thanks to residual heat in the pot. If a sharp smell or smoke appears, it has burned and needs to be started over, since a burnt taste does not disappear during baking.

Balancing black pepper against the sweetness

The identity of Jerusalem kugel is the contrast between sweet caramel and a quantity of black pepper that is significantly more than most home cooks are used to in other recipes. The trick is adding the pepper directly into the hot caramel, not later once the mixture has already cooled. The heat of the caramel makes the essential oils in the pepper bloom and release, so the flavor comes out round and aromatic instead of sharp and raw the way pepper tastes when scattered cold onto a mixture that has already set.

Jerusalem Kugel for Rosh Hashanah

The caramel base for Jerusalem kugel comes together without stirring it with a spoon, just swirling the pot gently.

Jerusalem Kugel for Rosh Hashanah
Servings: 10 servingsPrep time: 25 minCook time: 50 minTotal time: 1 hr 15 min

Ingredients

  • 14 oz / 400 g thin vermicelli noodles
  • 5.3 oz / 150 g sugar (3/4 cup)
  • 1/3 cup / 80 ml canola oil
  • 4 large eggs, beaten
  • 2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
  • 1 tsp salt

Instructions

  1. Cook the noodles in salted boiling water according to package instructions until nearly done, drain and transfer to a bowl.

  2. In the same pot, heat the oil and sugar together over medium heat without stirring with a spoon, just swirling the pot occasionally.

  3. Keep heating until the mixture turns a deep amber, then remove from heat immediately, since the sugar keeps darkening even after it is off the heat.

  4. Add the black pepper right into the hot caramel so it blooms in the heat.

  5. Return the noodles to the same pot with the caramel and mix quickly until all the noodles are coated.

  6. Add the salt, let the mixture cool for a few minutes, then add the beaten eggs and mix well.

  7. Transfer to a baking dish, or leave it in the same pot if it is oven-safe, and bake in a preheated 350°F / 180°C oven for about 50 minutes, until the top layer is browned and firm.

  8. Remove, let rest for 10 minutes, then slice.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make Jerusalem kugel ahead of time?
Yes, you can bake it a day ahead and reheat slices in a moderate oven before serving. The flavor only improves after a night in the fridge.

What if the sugar crystallizes instead of melting?
This happens when sugar crystals form on the sides of the pot. Brush them down with a wet pastry brush before continuing to heat, and the mixture will go back to melting.

Can I use brown sugar instead of white?
Yes, brown sugar gives a darker color and a slightly deeper flavor, but shorten the heating time since it burns faster than white sugar.

Why did my kugel come out too wet in the middle?
It was probably pulled out too early. Jerusalem kugel needs to bake until the top layer is genuinely firm to the touch, not just browned, or the center stays wet.